Monday, 26 January 2015
Embracing risk
Sunday, 25 January 2015
Shuffling
Thursday, 8 January 2015
Notes from Cuba
Cuba. Exactly as I'd expected, probably how most people expect it, but also all my preconceptions had proved wholly unable to imagine the blazing exuberance and warmth, the sense of at once just being somewhere, another country, and at the same time being nowhere my imagination could have foreseen or coloured in sufficiently well.
Am riding with 17 others plus our guide, Yuri, whose Russian name dates him at approximately 40 years of age, and our driver, the quietly stable Jose, younger, no doubt with a small family hidden somewhere in Havana. These new people give me another 'country' of new and foreign souls to learn. To carve out my place among, albeit for a short but intensely bonding 8 days.
In both these strange new territories I have grown and come to know myself and my limitations, I have come to accept myself through a new lens, not always flattering but sharply truer than the self who puts one foot in front of the other without thought in my daily routines at home, work. Perhaps that is one of the reasons people travel or choose to do hard physical labour, it is so exposing and intense, like four cups of seeing and being squeezed into the place of just one normal, routine amount of seeing, understanding a new place, our beautiful world and variety of landscapes, foods, climates, and also the infinite and beautiful variety of others and of ourselves.
I don't know if this is what others also find when they step off international jets, this childlike joy, this education, this cleaning of the looking glass, though I sense it is universal.
At the Eastern Bloc inspired hotel braced like an ugly dog over the lake, amidst the mountains everything, everyone, brings to mind a Russian movie with gangsters, all with thick necks, shaved heads and smiles which don't reach their eyes, acting as waiters, bellboys, desk clerks. They and their brutal hotel appear to have come straight from central casting. The cowboys, the street musicians, the eye wateringly beautiful young women, the big mamma with the sad, beaten but I'll fight for my family until I die eyes, all of them, all of Cuba appears to be from a brilliantly well rendered movie set. Everything is large or loud or stunning or so much a caricature it's hard to believe it's true. My eyes hurt with it. Everything from the humblest street and it's characters, to the architecture of the largest city, the mountains and beaches with bars staffed by people whose ancestors were Negro slaves, or Russian sailors, or Spanish traders, or from a neighbouring Caribbean country, all colours and combinations, they all seem extraordinary and unreal, it's as if the country is being choreographed by a sensory genius and just outside the peripheral vision a stack of cameras is probably capturing it all unfurl on celluloid.
I miss her terribly. Always always always. There is just nobody on this planet who I'd rather be here with, be anywhere with. I'm as tied to her now as I always was. I didn't expect that. I'm also stronger than I'd expected. I feel exposed, raw, true and my flaws are myriad and reflect back at me dazzlingly as if I'm in a prism, enclosed in this skin, this soul, as tied to me as hope. But I'm learning to try to accept it, the flaws, the not knowing if I'm doing anything right. I think what I have to do is keep cycling or working or walking or trying or being happy all at once. Just keep on living with whatever portion of faith I've been allotted, with as much dignity and kindness as I can, with as much love as it's humanly possible to breathe in and out. I am happy, very happy, if a little sore of heart and bum.
I pluck hairs from my legs, my face. An apparently expert waxer without the wax. I think about the country I came from, about her. about my sitting room at home and where I'll decide to hang my Cuba pictures and whether my dining room would be more welcoming if I painted it a specific shade of yellow I've seen in a magazine. I think about home. On one level it is simple, some rooms which I own. On another level it is my foreign-ness, the distance, the weight of time which now separates and estranges me from my birth home, ever increasing and ever washing over me, waves of nostalgia shush in full of faces, voices, corner dairies and Roman sandals, and shush back out empty. It is my home, bones and blood, it is no longer my home and I don't care, it is, it isn't, I care and I don't, over and over. And her, a deeper primal home something in me is programmed to want, to need, to endlessly snag on. I think about home in all it's forms. The colour of walls, the structure of my bones, the structure of my soul. And there are three homes, maybe four, possibly more. As I spiral upwards slowly as if scaling a giant white shell, straining for the apex, I count them one two three, all are sustaining me, making me. Maybe I am greedy. Sometimes I think I might be lost. And yet, and yet, where is it written we can have only one home?
I hope to be gentle and strong, brave and free. And I mostly am, except those times I forget to be patient. I am immeasurably luckier than my mother, her mother. I am not as lucky, nor half as smart as my daughter. Ever grander and more demanding than the previous generation.
Today, by accident, I fell into step behind a young man, a boy really, of about 15 walking the cobbled smelly streets of Havana. He had a mesmerising bearing, walking tall and relaxed, like he owned the street, drawing gazes and many, many shouts of ola! and clapping joyous hand shakes, mostly from boys the same age or younger. For a few minutes, perhaps five or six, I was in step with a fierce and beautiful stranger on a centuries old road going to buy ice cream or take his mother some produce. And just for a moment before our paths changed I felt as blessed as him, beautiful, confident, an aura of mana as thick as a grown man's thighs emanating from him, making his life happen from the inside out, effortlessly clearing a way through a crowded street, my arms and legs sauntering in harmony with his, until I all but evaporated and for just a fleeting moment was him and loved him.
Yesterday, by the pool at the posh hotel I sneaked into with my swimsuit under my clothes so I could swim and read in peace and pretend to be one of the guests, I watched a family of grossly overweight Russians throw their empty beer cans and plastic glasses in a wide circle while they caroused and swam and went pink under the sun. They are, my Australian friend said, used to being in charge here, the imperialist power, the provider of everything that isn't sugar or rum. Like any imperialist faction with as yet too little education to be gracious or respecting of their to-them minor hosts, they behave shockingly. It's like watching daytime TV. I think of the English in Africa and India, of the New Zealanders in the Pacific islands, of the French in Morocco. The historical balance of power is corrupt in those places too and it's deeply unpleasant to think I or my family or friends have ever acted like entitled spoilt brats in some culturally 'lesser' but sunny Archipelago albeit unthinkingly. To treat a king and a poor man the same, then you'll be a man, my son, comes to mind. Archipelago is such a nice word, five small syllables strung out in a curve, like a string of Islands in a turquoise sea. I wonder where it comes from, Latin? Must look it up when I'm home.
I sit alone at a table for five, maybe six people, queues of mostly families stand and wait to take my place, any place. The coffee here is excellent and they all seem to know that of all the numerous cafés, waiting here is a good decision. I am not hurried, I read, I smoke, I stare at the people, I once offer, via gestures, the spare seats at my table to a small waiting family but they are not convinced, prefer to wait. This doesn't bother me but does make me wonder what they see. An older woman, glasses on the end of her nose, hair scraped back, reading, occasionally examining them. The invisibility of age comes to mind. Right here, in the shade of this cafe, in Havana, Cuba, in the heat of midday sun where yesterday reports of snow in England found me, I am not concerned. I decide to let the queues queue, to retain my seat, maybe order a sandwich. I am happy. I like being alone. Despite the setting, the fact I am happily alone travelling to exotic and strange lands, I am still bourgeois. It is a stain I can't wash out, though I've tried. It seems to lie in the weft and weave underlying everything. I wonder how it got there. Nature or nurture? And does it really matter? The more I travel or think or read, the less I care, the more gentle I become, including to my own petty little bourgeois self.
Despite that, I can honestly say the world seems to reflect back that life is and will be extraordinarily rich and interesting. Increasingly I say yes to everything. Increasingly I enjoy my life like a child, riding my bike, staring at strangers, asking shockingly blunt questions. I have feared for some long time I might be autistic, somehow always wrong for my setting, and perhaps I am, but at this moment I don't care, I am free and life is wonderful.
Today I wore my long black dress. The one men and women always comment on, though how a plain long sleeveless black dress elicits such approval is beyond me. It seems almost magical the way people respond to me when I'm wearing it. I wear it partly because it has this effect and partly because it's the only thing I have left which isn't covered in stains. It is, but being black hides them. I've been here three days now and I'm learning, they appreciate a certain sashaying here, what the French would call j'ne sais quoi, confidence, what Latinos seem to think is de rigeuer. They treat me much better, nobody hawks their wares, not one, I sashay down crowded, steaming streets smelling of urine and shit and coffee and rum and sweat and aftershave and I am allowed to pass. Because the dress is so long I can swing my legs wide when I sit for coffee, I can command my own small space. It's a far cry from the power of youth or beauty but it's still measurably power. Today I was immune to the barking of dogs and the need to take more photos, I had seen enough 1950s cars and shops selling Che Guevara t-shirts, I was merely walking from A to B, unhurried, unimpressed, untouchable. It felt really good. It felt entirely unapologetic.
A child screams and 100 pigeons are on the wing, wheeling over Plaza le Viaja. I need a wee. The worst thing about travelling alone is not being able to leave all your things when you go to the loo.
A stunning black girl of about 16 leans into a white man aged about 65 and tries unsuccessfully to not look bored. He moves his feet nearer to hers, til they're touching. This is rarer here than in Thailand, but it's always upsetting. I want to shout at him but I don't. It's impossible to be sure whether she has made a good trade, though I doubt she has. I want to tell her 'he will never take you with him home to Europe', but I don't. One of the quartet of men I traded prices with for two posters earlier said 'take me with you, I beg you'. Who knows. They all look stupidly happy, joyous even, as if something is put in the water to anaesthetise them. But sometimes desperation leaks out.
Tonight, on my last night in Cuba, I met Roaldo, a Morgan Freeman doppelgänger and the man in charge of the city's oldest bakery. I had read in my guidebook that the street I was staying in was the worst street in the entire city, that I should never go out unaccompanied, and that after dark I should always take a taxi. So I decided to go out at night alone and walk the street to see if it was true because nothing I'd seen or heard or experienced so far bore out anything written in the book. I met Roaldo because I asked if I could take a photo of the nearly stacked loaves at the front of the shop and the man serving called for his boss, Roaldo. He was about 6'6, his eyes gentle and intelligent. He shrugged yes, I may take photos but asked if I might prefer to see the bread being made, and to take photos of that? And yes, of course, I would. He led me back behind the counter to cavernous rooms of stainless steel and tiled benches at which four younger men stood making different shaped rolls from glutinous creamy dough. They seemed as astonished as me that I was there, they fell silent as Roaldo showed me everything, talking quietly about the oven, which he opened, a cavernous blazing brick lined furnace reminiscent of gigantic pizza oven, and the sauna-like proving room where racks and racks of long rolls, short rolls, round rolls were being coaxed to rise, water pooling on the floor, the bread sweating gently in the mist. Roaldo said he is trying to learn English. He's already very good, I should have told him. The bread doesn't excite me to eat, all puffy white, the same rolls my landlady tries to make me eat every breakfast. But the bakery is interesting, the cocky young bakers gathered their strength to quiz me. Their first question, via Roaldo as interpreter, am I alone in Cuba, yes, their second, do I choose to travel alone, yes, rendering them mute, possibly pitying but also like a class of 10 or 12 year old boys, the jocularity hiding only barely their plain human interest. An interest we all share. Roaldo was patient, generous, quietly spoken, behaving as if this - a stranger who spoke no Spanish wandering round his bakery - was the most routine event, and perhaps it is. How much longer would I stay. I leave tomorrow. It was the first time I realised I'd miss this country. I've been longing to go home, I'm tired and it's expensive being on the road, though not lonely. My brother had asked me would I be safe on my own in Cuba. Wasn't I worried? Was I sure I'd be okay? And here I was at about11pm in a dark backstreet bakery, safe and inexplicably moved by Roaldo and the rising bread. I made sure to eat all my bread at breakfast the next day. It was good.
Monday, 28 July 2014
Is kindness love?
Monday, 21 July 2014
And then this...
Saturday, 19 July 2014
Go to the edge, look out, report back
Sunday, 1 June 2014
Letter to my younger self
Friday, 28 March 2014
Love, love, love
Saturday, 22 March 2014
Tiny beautiful things
Wednesday, 12 March 2014
Becoming the un-disfigured self
Friday, 21 February 2014
Winter
Meditation
Tuesday, 4 February 2014
I keep failing but apparently that's normal
1620–30; < Latin resili ( ēns ), present participle of resilīre to springback, rebound.
Monday, 27 January 2014
Cliche cliche cliche
1. If I start to see someone as a potential new mate then the old flame I never quite got over will almost inevitably reappear on the scene as if by magic.
2. If I ever think even for a moment that I am somehow better than anyone or above a certain situation, I will be taken down, usually by a small but embarrassing ‘fail’ in front of an audience.
3. I don’t have to tell someone I’m becoming more interested in them or that I’m not.
All of these would seem normal lessons if I was 13 or 14. Not quite so great given I am a great deal older than that and either haven’t learned these things til now or, more likely did know them once, then forgot. Duh.
I started this blog as a bid to record attempts and failures to stretch my boundaries, to become bigger and better in life, in everything. I want to transcend the stupidest time-wastingly desperately tedious nonsense such as 1, 2 and 3 above.
I hoped to document that it was possible to rise above nonsense, to become bigger hearted, to live 100% conscious that we are all one, that life is bliss, full of joy and promise. And to somehow manage it while not on drugs (if you don’t count the wine, because we all know the “we are all love” stuff is not just possible on drugs, it’s kind of mandatory).
I wanted to reach out and leap into this place and I will try again, but let’s just say for January 2014 I have become a lot more wrapped up in silly stuff than I’d hoped. Before the first month is out, my head has been turned, I’ve had a bout of jealousy so severe I had to leave the room and stomp around the block; I’ve become wrapped up in minutiae I had assumed, arrogantly, I had risen above (cue flagstone to trip over); I’ve fallen for a cliché life, like a wedding album with artful shots of shoes in black and white. The photos seem to be meaningful, an attempt to tell a story – here is my big day; here are my beautiful shoes – but the images themselves have become clichés and so, ultimately, devoid of meaning. That is what I want to avoid, becoming a cliché, devoid of meaning.
Roll on a new week.
Tuesday, 14 January 2014
We all know bliss. It is all we seek
Sunday, 12 January 2014
Thinking about love
Bliss (is the answer)
When I follow what makes me happy, or more accurately, blissed out, I am (kind of obviously!) very, very happy.
Here are some of the things which have blissed me out in the last week:
- Pilates class
- Seeing flocks of birds scatter and fly high overhead as I drive to work
I think we owe it to life, others and ourselves to seek out things which bliss us out.
And so it starts
And so it starts
This blog is an attempt to try and soften or even lose the boundaries of who I am and what I expect and think I can be. I want to love more, live more, expand and stretch who and what I might be. My goal is to try to see others, be less introspective and more extrospective (that might not be a word but you know what I mean).
The idea comes on the heels of improvements in my life which started last April or May. Back then I had just emerged from a long-term relationship which had eroded nearly everything I had spent my life building or standing on and my first attempts at recovering were based on trying to open my mind to new ideas and people, to try new things, to try not to restrict who I would next become by wearing the small coat of what I had once been.
I figured that being devastated by the end of a love affair was an opportunity to go back to scratch and try rebuilding someone I could be proud of. And the more I reached out, the happier I became. In six or seven months I made more friends than I'd managed to make in the previous decade, I'd always enjoyed my job but I started loving it, I felt as if anything was possible. All this, I realised in the week between Christmas and New Year, could be just a start. My colleagues at work had called it my ‘year of saying yes’ but it was never about just a year and it was never about just saying yes – I want to live the rest of my life in hope, in love, in faith and in confidence. Wherever possible I am going to not let fear or any of its attendants - small mindedness, bitterness, anger – dictate the direction life will take.
This blog then is an attempt to write down the attempts, the failures, the successes as I try to be open minded, to try and see people and life as if everyone and everything is beautiful or holds the possibility of beauty within it, to be brave and see what happens. Welcome to my naked soul blog.







